Changing the Skin Surface’s pH Balance

Cleansers interact with the skin’s moisture barrier as well as the skin’s pH to emulsify dirt and oil for easy removal. As dirt or debris is usually embedded in the barrier’s outer layer of oil, removing this dirt can disrupt this naturally protective surface.

The health of the skin’s moisture barrier is important as this barrier preserves water and natural oils to moisturize and maintain the smoothness and flexibility of the skin. It also serves as your skin’s protection against injury from chemicals or bacteria. Harsher cleansers can disrupt this barrier, as well as irritate the skin and affect the skin surface pH, which scientists believe plays a role in regulating how this barrier functions and protects us from bacteria. Studies show that the barrier’s regeneration and repair happens more slowly at a neutral pH than at the skin’s natural acidic pH. Changing the skin surface’s pH balance can increase the skin’s sensitivity to potential irritants.

Cleansing with water, soap or a liquid cleanser will affect the skin’s moisture barrier, although soap will have the most impact and will make the skin’s pH more alkaline. Liquid facial cleansers clean more gently, with less disruption of the barrier and have a smaller effect on the skin pH. Some of the new synthetic detergents will remove dirt and disrupt the outer layer of oil, but then work to ensure the skin barrier is left intact by restoring the oil.

Mild Cleanser Basics

Why Cleanse the Skin?

Skin cleansing is necessary for skin health, hygiene and well being. Without effective cleansing, your skin’s surface can accumulate debris, sweat, air pollution, excess oil and bacteria. Cleaning the skin also helps to reduce the growth of microorganisms and reduce infection.

Washing with water alone will rinse some of the dirt and debris away, alone it’s not quite enough. Plain tap water will only remove about 65 percent of the oil and dirt on your skin, and will not effectively remove makeup. Skin cleansers, however, work as emulsifiers and help remove dirt, excess sebum (natural skin oils), bacteria, cosmetics and exfoliated surface skin cells.

Cleansers are especially important for those who use cosmetics, have sensitive or irritated skin, or use topical skin treatments.

Where Dirt and Debris Collect

When we cleanse our skin, we’re targeting the outermost layer of the skin called the epidermis. This outermost layer of the epidermis is composed of a tough protein-fat structure that produces a protective outer film, the skin moisture barrier. Part of the function of the epidermis is to waterproof the skin. While this film shields skin cells from the environment, it also traps and holds dust, pollutants, smoke, bacteria, cell debris, sweat and cosmetics.

Washing the embedded dirt off of your skin also removes some of this outer protective film and can irritate your skin, although mild cleansers have been developed to restore and maintain this protective covering.

Cleansing History

Today many people use the term “soap” to refer to any cleaning agent regardless of its chemistry.

Traditionally soap is a simple combination of fats, oils and salt with a history stretching back to the ancient Romans. In fact, the word “detergent” is derived from “to wipe off” in Latin.

Soaps as we know them were first used about 600 BC by the Phoenicians who combined goat fat, water and potassium carbonate ash to form a solid soap.

More recently, in 1878, Harley Procter developed a new type of soap in collaboration with his cousin, James Gamble. They whipped air into a solution and created Ivory Soap, a product still sold today.

Moisturizers For Different Skin Types

Oily Skin:

The moisturizers for patients with oily skin should be non-comedogenic or oil-free.

Dry Skin:

There are a small percentage of people who actually have dry skin on their face, these people will be dry on the cheeks and jawline. Many of these patients work outside in rough elements, and many of these people are over 50 years of age. For these patients a creamy moisturizer in a lotion or cream is very effective. If they do not have sensitive skin, they can wear whatever products feels good.

The reason for the paucity of dry skin on the face, is that there is an abundance of sebaceous glands on the face to prevent dryness. These are particularly active in young people, in men, and in many normal women. If a person is scaly in the center of the face central forehead, around the nose, and on the central chin, this may be seborrheic dermatitis. The use of a heavy moisturizer in people who have central facial dandruff (seborrheic dermatitis) could lead to acne.

Normal - Combination Skin:

Most people have oily skin on the forehead, nose, and chin (called the T-zone), and dryer skin on the cheeks and neck. When the humidity is low, it may be necessary to moisturize the face. The most prudent of patients ,male or female, will select a non-comedogenic moisturizer which contains a minimum SPF of 15 in it for daily use. There are legions of such products reasonably priced, which will prevent cancer and photoaging.

Moisturizers - Body Skin:

Because there are very few sebaceous (oil) glands on the arms and legs, moisturizers are very important. Winter, dry climates, and windy climates are very hard on the skin of the body. Many body lotions incorporate sunblocks for a daily routine. This is very important for sun exposed skin.

Often heavy moisturizers such as petrolatum, rich creams, and other Jar or tube moisturizers are needed for dry climates. What may be appropriate for facial skin may be too thin for the arms, legs, hands, and feet.