FAQ on Sunscreens and Sunburns

1. “How Much Sunscreen Should I Apply?”

The average user of sunscreen tends to use significantly less sunscreen than the amount required to achieve the SPF listed on the container.

2. “How Often Should I Apply Sunscreen When I’m Out In The Sun?’”

Many experts recommend that frequent application during sun exposure is required. However, a group of children were tested by spreading on 1 application of sunscreen to one side of their bodies, and four applications to the other.

They then spent 6 hours in the sun. One application provided the same level of protection as four applications, confirming the adequacy of a single daily application of a sunscreen in that situation.

3. “How Long Before Sun Exposure Should I Apply Sunscreen To My Skin?”

As molecules of sunscreen are present in their active state in the sunscreen, sunscreens work immediately upon application. The only reason for application early is to allow absorption into the skin so that the sunscreen is less likely to be washed off, should the person be entering the water. Even so, modern sunscreens are quite resistant to removal from the skin.

4. “Sun Protection Factor (SPF) - What Is It?”

SPF is the ratio of the minimal ultraviolet dose required to produce redness with and without a sunscreen. For example, if it took ½ hour for your skin to become sunburned without any sunscreen, then for a sunscreen that has a 15 SPF rating, you could stay in the sun for 15 times longer (or 7.5 hours) before you get sunburned. This is provided, of course, that you’ve applied the sunscreen properly so that you’re getting the prescribed protection.

5. “Reactions To Sunscreens?”

Sunscreens can be both an irritant and an allergen, though allergic reactions are rare. Irritant reactions, however, abound. One classic error in sunscreen application is to put a large amount of sunscreen on the forehead. Perspiration and gravity can cause the sunscreen to migrate down your forehead into your eyes, causing a stinging sensation. Some people attribute this to an allergic reaction and discontinue use. It’s also important to wash your hands after applying sunscreen, since rubbing your sunscreen covered finger near your eyes can induce an irritant reaction.

6. “Why Is It Important To Use Sunscreens During Childhood?”

It appears that a great deal of time can elapse between actual sun damage and the development of skin cancer or other skin problems like photoaging. Therefore, it is important to protect your skin from an early age when you are out in the sun.

7. “Sunscreens And The Elderly?”

Many elderly people can become quite obsessed by sun avoidance, and their quality of life can suffer. Sometimes, if they are diagnosed with an actinic keratosis or basal cell carcinoma, they can become anxious and almost leap from shadow to shadow. However, few of them are likely to develop new skin cancers from present sun exposure. As long as they are prudent about avoiding excessive sun exposure and protecting their skin to prevent sunburn, they can continue to enjoy time outdoors.

8. “Can Sunscreens Prevent Cancer?”

There is clear evidence that sunscreens are helpful in preventing actinic keratoses, which are warty lesions that can occur on sun-exposed skin of the face or hands. Research has shown that these lesions can develop into a cancer called squamous cell carcinoma, and that this is linked to a cumulative exposure to the sun.

However, there is surprisingly little evidence that sunscreens have much effect in preventing another kind of skin cancer called basal cell carcinoma, or for malignant melanoma. For malignant melanoma and for basal cell carcinoma, the character and timing, that is, the type of sunlight and your age at the time of the exposure to the sun appears to be more important than the cumulative dose.

Adapted from an article by David I. McLean, MD, and Richard Gallagher, MA.

Acne Treatments

There are two main methods of acne treatment that you can follow: topical treatment and oral treatment.

Before selecting a treatment, you must have a solid understanding about acne, and determine the exact type of acne that you have. In addition to this, it is also important to set goals for your acne treatment. Here are some points to keep in mind when thinking about acne, and when selecting the best acne medication for yourself.

Goals of acne treatment:

• You should understand how much acne and what type of acne you have.
• To stop new acne blemishes from developing with appropriate treatment.
• To treat acne scars and prevent new scars from forming.

Points you should remember:

• You can control and cover the visible lesions and avoid embarrassment.
• Treatment is available that can prevent acne scarring.
• You should get help for your acne as soon as you notice it. Early treatment minimizes the severity of acne. This is important especially if one of your parents had severe acne.
• Treatment may last for months and often years.
• You should understand that improvement can be slow, and will often take months (not weeks) to work. There may even be an initial flare of your acne.

Points To Remember For Selecting Your Best Acne Treatment:

• The severity level of your acne
• Your personal goals for therapy
• The effectiveness of the treatment and possible side effects
• Your personal preference.

Other Circumstances Specific To Girls And Women:

• Pregnancy: is it possible you could become pregnant during treatment, or are you already pregnant?
• Breastfeeding: Will you be breastfeeding during treatment?
• Are you in the childbearing age range?
• The acne treatment that you select will depend on the factors listed below:

• The severity of your condition
• The type of acne (comedonal vs. inflamed) lesions you have
• Any previous experience you have had (and your skin’s response) to other treatments
• The degree of oiliness or sensitivity of your skin
• Any history you may have of sensitive skin or extreme irritation to specific products.

Note: Acne may flare in the initial stages of treatment. However, this is not necessarily an indication of unsuitable treatment. On average, you’re likely to see about a 20% improvement per month.

ACNE STAGE:

Minimal	Mild	Moderate	Severe
Few comedones	Comedones	Comedones
Rare papules	Few papules	Many papules
No nodules/scars	Few pustules	Many pustules
Face only	No nodules	No nodules on the face	No nodules on the face
	No nodules on the face	Scars may be present	Scars on face/chest and back

ACNE TREATMENT:

Minimal	Mild	Moderate	Severe
Acne cleansers
OTC Treatments
	Topical retinoids	Topical retinoids
	Topical benzoyl peroxide	Topical benzoyl peroxide
	Topical antibiotics	Topical antibiotics
		Oral antibiotics
		Hormone pills
	Oral retinoids for acne scarring	Oral retinoids for acne scarring	Oral retinoids (Isotretinion or Accutane)

Moisturizers For Different Skin Types

Oily Skin:

The moisturizers for patients with oily skin should be non-comedogenic or oil-free.

Dry Skin:

There are a small percentage of people who actually have dry skin on their face, these people will be dry on the cheeks and jawline. Many of these patients work outside in rough elements, and many of these people are over 50 years of age. For these patients a creamy moisturizer in a lotion or cream is very effective. If they do not have sensitive skin, they can wear whatever products feels good.

The reason for the paucity of dry skin on the face, is that there is an abundance of sebaceous glands on the face to prevent dryness. These are particularly active in young people, in men, and in many normal women. If a person is scaly in the center of the face central forehead, around the nose, and on the central chin, this may be seborrheic dermatitis. The use of a heavy moisturizer in people who have central facial dandruff (seborrheic dermatitis) could lead to acne.

Normal - Combination Skin:

Most people have oily skin on the forehead, nose, and chin (called the T-zone), and dryer skin on the cheeks and neck. When the humidity is low, it may be necessary to moisturize the face. The most prudent of patients ,male or female, will select a non-comedogenic moisturizer which contains a minimum SPF of 15 in it for daily use. There are legions of such products reasonably priced, which will prevent cancer and photoaging.

Moisturizers - Body Skin:

Because there are very few sebaceous (oil) glands on the arms and legs, moisturizers are very important. Winter, dry climates, and windy climates are very hard on the skin of the body. Many body lotions incorporate sunblocks for a daily routine. This is very important for sun exposed skin.

Often heavy moisturizers such as petrolatum, rich creams, and other Jar or tube moisturizers are needed for dry climates. What may be appropriate for facial skin may be too thin for the arms, legs, hands, and feet.

Skin Cleansers and Soaps

Soaps, as we know them, were first used about 600 BC by the Phoenicians who combined goat fat, water, and potassium carbonate ash to form a solid soap. More recently, in 1878, Harley Procter developed a soap in collaboration with his cousin, James Gamble. They produced a soap by whipping air into a soap solution, this resulted in Ivory Soap, which is still used today.

Cleansing of the skin helps the skin to maintain a healthy, attractive looking, surface. It removes dust, perspiration, and some of the breakdown products of sebum. Makeup can also be removed.

Foreign substances such as dirt will mix with the oil of the skin and become embedded. Water is inadequate to remove this. Soaps will be used to decrease the oil on the surface of the skin removing the dirt at the same time.

Soaps are essentially made of salts of fatty acids. The most commonly used fats come from animal and vegetable sources and include stearic acid, palmitic, oleic, as well as lauric. Soap particles will coat the fat droplets in which dirt is embedded and then will allow these to be removed by water.

Types Of Cleansers:

1. Bar soaps
2. Lipid free cleansers
3. Cleansing creams
4. Astringents and toners
5. Abrasive scrubs
6. Facial masks

Soaps can be irritating to the skin, the removal of the protective fat layer can lead to drying. A high pH of skin can also be irritating. Soaps can also combine with the calcium and magnesium found on the surface of the skin to form fatty acid salts which of themselves become irritating. The skin’s acidity may be affected. The acidity of the skin is important to inhibit bacterial and fungal infections.

1) Bar soaps:

Bar soaps are essentially salts of fatty acids, they are the most commonly used cleansers. They can be irritating, particularly to sensitive skin. A number of components can be added to soaps including the following:

• Moisturizers
• Fragrances & perfumes
• Preservatives
• Colouring agents
• Anti-bacterial compounds

Moisturizers:

Moisturizers will counteract the drying effect of soaps. The loss of the protective oil layer increases the chances of irritation. This can be counteracted by the use of moisturizing products such as glycerin, vegetable fats, or lanolin. The amount of moisturizer that is incorporated into soap is very small. Individuals who have a tendency to have dry skin should apply specific moisturizers after washing with soap rather than relying on the moisturizing component of soaps. Transparent soaps will have a high glycerin content and this tends to absorb water out of the skin, potentially causing more irritation.

Fragrances:

Fragrances are commonly used to conceal the odours of the raw ingredients of soaps. Some individuals will be sensitive and become allergic to these products. Anti-bacterial soaps will contain triclosan or triclocarban. A small residue will remain on the skin, which may inhibit bacteria. These can be useful in inhibiting unpleasant odours such as those found in areas where there are a significant number of apocrine sweat glands. These are found in the armpits and groin.

Mild soaps:

Mild soaps are designed to minimize irritations. They will not have colouring agents or perfumes. These do not tend to cause stinging of the skin or the eyes. Irritation or allergic reactions, while less likely to occur, may still be a problem for small children or for those who have very sensitive skin.

2) Lipid-free cleansers:

These are liquid cleansers that do not contain any fat. They will be applied to the skin and then wiped away or rinsed off with water. Many of these will contain glycerin, cetyl alcohol, sodium or sulphate, and sometimes propylene glycol. They will leave a very fine moisturizing film on the skin. These are particularly effective in removing cosmetics and are useful for individuals who have a tendency towards eczema. These may also be more helpful in older, drier skin.

3) Cleansing creams:

These creams can be used to both wash the skin and to moisturize it, they contain a mixture of mineral oil, petroleum, water, and some waxes. These are known also as cold creams, they are applied to the skin and washed off. They are useful for removing makeup and are usually made of heavy oils. These creams are helpful in removing sebum from the skin. They are gentler than other cleansers, and are recommended for dry skin, but are not that useful for those with oily skin or individuals with acne. Cleansing creams are best not used as moisturizers, as they are likely to cause irritation if left on for some time.

4) Astringents and toners:

These are perfumed or fragranced alcohol-based solutions designed to remove oil from the skin and will produce a tight feeling to the skin. Many multi-stat cleansing regimens will incorporate astringents that are used after a regular bar soap is used, they certainly have some benefit in removing alkaline soaps that tend to stick to the skin. Astringents are available for oily, normal, and dry skin. The high concentration of alcohol certainly removes sebum especially in those with oily skin for example, individuals with acne. They are the products used to control T zone oiliness.

5) Abrasive scrubbers:

These substances cause the rubbing off or exfoliation of the surface of the skin, they are available either as an abrasive sponge, or an abrasive scrub which has small granules within a cream base. These are used to remove skin scales, they work through mechanical means rather than through chemical action. They should be used infrequently, and cannot be tolerated on a daily basis, if used excessively they can cause damage of the stratum corneum, which is the surface of the epidermis producing redness and scaling.

6) Facial masks:

Facial masks are applied to the skin in a thick layer and are left on for 15-30 minutes, they are otherwise known as facials. It is said that these will produce skin tightening as well as deep cleaning of the hair follicles and pores. They may be used as a preventative treatment for acne. These products cleanse and moisturize the skin as well, they have a cleansing action through superficial peeling of the skin. They will leave the skin feeling moisturized, there is a general feeling of well being for some time after this is done, although it is not possible to fundamentally change the skin longterm with these products.

Some masks are applied and rinsed off with water, these are absorbent masks that are made of insoluble powders, clay, and mud, or gel masks that contain substances such as tragacanth. A mask that is peeled off will be vinyl or rubber based, and will harden, and form into a transparent sheet that will have to be removed. Facial masks that are used for acne will absorb oil from the skin, and some of them can be integrated with sulpha and benzoyl peroxide.

Excessive cleansing with a mask can certainly cause irritation and occasionally there may be a secondary infection. Once these masks are removed, moisturizer should be applied to the skin to minimize the superficial peeling that follows.

Diet and Dry Skin

There are lots of things you can do with your diet and supplements that can help your dry skin. To combat dry skin, your body needs fats to build fat-rich cells that hold on to moisture. Saturated, monounsaturated and omega-3 fats are key components in the cell membranes . Vegetarians (who eat eggs and dairy products but not meat) eat about one-third less saturated fat than the average meat eater. Vegans (who eat no animal products of any kind) only receive about one half as much saturated fat as the average meat-eating American. As a result, they obtain from their diet much less cholesterol than omnivores.

Although cholesterol has received a bad name due to concerns about its connection with cardiovascular illness, recent studies show that it does have benefits, particularly for some post menopausal women. Cholesterol is needed for key body functions within the cellular membranes that impact the skin. For example, studies show that cholesterol-lowering drugs can lead to dry skin, while decreased levels of essential fatty acids have been associated with dry skin, dry hair, and brittle nails. If you have these symptoms and you are a vegetarian you may want to speak to your doctor to see if you may suffer from an essential fatty acid deficiency.

The best way to assure you get a healthy diet of skin-enhancing fats is by eating a wide variety of whole plant foods. You can get fats from nuts, seeds, olives and avocados Use olive oil, replete with monosaturated fat, for cooking and salad dressings. Coconut oil is also an excellent alternative for it retains its stability at high temperatures. Try to avoid processed foods and deep-fried foods that are rich in trans fats and omega-6 polyrrnsaturated fats. These fats contribute to the production of free radicals, the by-products of oxidation, which is a skin aging process that antioxidant vegetables help tame. Although for many years polyunsaturated vegetable oils, like canola, corn, safflower, and soy were recommended, c anola oil is actually unstable when heated and the processed used to stabilize it turns a certain percentage of the oil into a trans fat.

Eating the undesirable fats found in these oils (as well in trans-fat containing foods such as margarine, most baked goods, fried foods, processed foods and sweets )may increase both wrinkling and the risk of developing skin and other cancers including melanoma. Vegetarians can eat eggs and dairy to obtain saturated fats while vegans can obtain them from coconut oil.

Fish oils are good sources of omega-3 polyunsaturated fatty acids which can increase the lipid content of your cells. They can be obtained from fish like salmon, as well as supplements with Omega-3 or Cod Liver Oil capsules. Omega-3s help your skin by providing essential fats needed for cellular integrity while they also prevent inflammation which can lead to the formation of dark spots in pigmented skin types.
Antioxidants are helpful in fighting free radicals - renegade oxygen molecules that cause cellular aging and wrinkles.

Also look for products that contain ingredients that help your skin retain moisture, such as essential fatty acids along with ingredients like lecithin to strengthens kin cell membranes. Look for products that are also third party tested to ensure they are free of environmental toxins. It is important in purchasing essential fats to ensure that you find a pure, well-tested source, free of environmental contaminants.

Several studies have suggested that it is better to get antioxidants through natural food sources instead of supplements, but if this is not possible or additional vitamin intake is needed, supplements can be a valuable help.

SUPPLEMENTS
The following oral supplements that contain the below nutrients can all be helpful to your skin:

Selenium is a powerful antioxidant mineral. Selenium. Some scientific evidence suggests that consumption of selenium may reduce the risk of certain forms of cancer. However, FDA has determined that this evidence is limited and not conclusive. Vitamins A, C, E, B5, alpha lipoic acid, and grape seed extract, Ester-C , CoQro, lutein, as well as zinc, selenium, copper, and lycopene. Take these supplements according to the manufacturer’s directions.

Taking glucosamine supplements increases hyaluronic acid production. Hyaluronic acid (also called Hyaluronan) is a component of connective tissue whose function is to cushion and lubricate. Vitamin C can be especially beneficial, although it is tough to get ample quantities from supplements, every little bit helps. Be cautious of a laxative effect from vitamin C. take small doses at first then build gradually to endure to reaction has occurred. Buffered vitamin C is also available for those with sensitive digestive tracks. Complementing your daily skin care regimen with skin supportive supplements can boost the benefits to your skin.

Home Toner Recipes

Home Toner Recipes

Blueberry Toner
Make this mask the day you plan to use it, and do not store.

3 tablespoons steamed, crushed blueberries
1/2 C. sour cream or plain yogurt
Purée ingredients in a blender at low speed until well mixed and fluffy. Apply to face and neck. Let penetrate for 15-20 minutes. Rinse off with tepid water. If you find the mask is too runny after blending, you should refrigerate for one hour or until of the consistency you desire.

ALMOND FACIAL MILK
The herbal waters are antiseptic and toning. Grapefruit seed extract is available in health food stores, and is included in the recipe as a preservative.
• 1/2 cup rose, lavender, or distilled water
• 1 teaspoon pure vegetable glycerin
• 1/4 to 1 teaspoon cold pressed organic almond oil
• 12 drops grapefruit seed extract
Make the rose or lavender water by placing a small handful of dried organic rose petals or lavender in a pint mason jar and adding boiling water to cover. Let steep overnight, then thoroughly strain. Combine the remaining ingredients in a glass jar and shake to blend. Dab some on your fingers or a cotton ball and massage into your skin. Rinse with warm water. Keep stored in the refrigerator for no more than a month or so. Discard at the first sign of mold.

Apple Face & Neck Gelee

Yield: Approx. 2 applications
Ingredients:
4 teaspoons hot distilled water
1 teaspoon freshly juiced apple juice
1 teaspoon aloe vera gel
4 teaspoons vegetable glycerin
1 heaping teaspoon powdered pectin

Add the glycerin to the water/juice/gel combination and stir to fully incorporate. Add the pectin while the liquid remains quite warm (if it cools, place it in the microwave or a double boiler to raise the temperature) and use a hand held electric mixer to blend, or stir vigorously to dissolve the pectin. Once the pectin has fully dissolved, a light gel will begin to form. This may take from 15 minutes to 1/2 hour. Once the gel sets, Apple Face & Neck Gelee is ready to use. Apply the gel in a layer to your clean, damp face and neck. Rest for 15 minutes. Rinse with warm water and follow with a light moisturizer if desired. Leftover product can be stored in the refrigerator for about a week. Enjoy!! The shelf life of this product is necessarily limited by the fresh apple juice. It should be used within a few days after it is made.

APPLE SKIN TONER

Intended for slightly oily skins, we’re told by our skincare team that Apple Toner is an excellent substitute for rubbing alcohol (a real no-no, as it actually stimulates the oil glands to produce more oil).
Combine 2/3 cup witch hazel,
1/3 cup of apple cider vinegar,
and several drops of Lavender Essential Oil (or essential oil of your choice).

Mix, and add to clean bottle. Shake bottle well before using, and then dampen a cotton ball or pad saturated with your toner, and swab over face. Witch hazel is a gentle astringent, apple cider vinegar will help restore your skin’s natural ph balance, and lavender soothes sensitive skin.

BASIL ACNE TONIC

Basil is known for its “soothing and toning” properties.
2 to 3 teaspoons dried basil leaves
1 C. boiling water
Steep basil leaves in water for 10 to 20 minutes. Cool, then apply to face with a white cotton ball. Keep tonic refrigerated. Recommended shelf life: 90 days.